How to choose a spotting scope: a guide for shooting, hunting and nature observation

How to choose a spotting scope: shooting, hunting and observation

A spotting scope is the high-magnification monocular that shooters mount on a tripod next to their shooting position to read their shots on the target without walking downrange every time. In this guide we look at what designations like 20-60x80 really mean, when an angled or a straight body is the better choice, what HD/ED glass does and when a model with a reticle makes sense. In the second part we also cover wildlife and landscape observation, birdwatching and digiscoping.

The technical information is based on manufacturer documentation (Leupold, Vortex Optics) and on optical principles that apply to every model. Where we mention products, we stick to the data declared by the manufacturer.

Magnification and objective lens: how to read the designation

A designation such as 20-60x80 contains two pieces of information. The first part (20-60x) is the variable magnification: the target appears 20 to 60 times closer. The second (80) is the objective lens diameter in millimetres: the larger it is, the more light it gathers and the higher the resolution, but size and weight increase too. Zooms in the 20-60x range are the most popular among range shooters.

Leupold roughly divides objective lenses into three classes:

• 40–50 mm: lightweight and easy to carry, with a sharp, bright image in good light;
• 60–65 mm: good light transmission with still moderate weight, the most versatile compromise;
• 80–85 mm: maximum resolution at long range and better performance in low light, at the cost of more weight.

Exit pupil: why the image gets darker at 60x

The exit pupil is calculated by dividing the objective lens diameter by the magnification. The smaller it is, the darker the image and the harder it is to centre your eye on it. That is why, at the same zoom, an 80 mm performs better than a 60–65 mm at high magnifications:

Configuration	Minimum magnification	Maximum magnification
20-60x80	80 ÷ 20 = 4.0 mm	80 ÷ 60 ≈ 1.3 mm
20-60x85	85 ÷ 20 ≈ 4.3 mm	85 ÷ 60 ≈ 1.4 mm
15-45x65	65 ÷ 15 ≈ 4.3 mm	65 ÷ 45 ≈ 1.4 mm
20-60x60	60 ÷ 20 = 3.0 mm	60 ÷ 60 = 1.0 mm

In practice, every spotting scope loses brightness at maximum magnification: this is normal, and the objective lens diameter determines how much.

How much magnification do you need to see bullet holes?

There is no table that works for everyone, because the visibility of a hole depends on several factors at once:

• calibre: the larger the hole, the farther away you can make it out; a .22 is much harder to read than a .30;
• target colour: a hole in a black area is less visible than on white paper or on a reactive splatter target;
• light: at dawn, at dusk or under overcast skies, it pays to reduce magnification for a brighter image;
• mirage: in hot weather, the air rising from the ground makes the image shimmer. In these conditions, lowering the magnification often gives a more readable image and a wider field of view;
• optical quality and stability: beyond a certain distance, the glass and a solid tripod make more difference than the numbers on the box.

Mirage, on the other hand, is not just a nuisance: by watching the direction and lean of the shimmer through the spotting scope, many precision shooters use it to read the wind along the firing line.

Planet Shooters' advice: getting the most out of your spotting scope

• Be realistic about distances. At 100 m, in good light, a quality spotting scope generally lets you read holes from most calibres. Beyond 200–300 m things change: precision shooters report that .22/.223 holes at 300 yards (about 275 m) can be seen with a good scope only on light-coloured paper and in good conditions, while in a black area or in the heat they become difficult even for high-end optics. A .30 stays readable for longer.
• Let the target help you. A light background or reactive splatter targets make holes visible much farther away than a classic black target.
• Start low on magnification. Find the target at 20–25x, then zoom in as long as the image stays sharp. If it shimmers or turns "mushy", back off: a clean image at 35x is worth more than a blurry one at 60x.
• Set up your position before shooting. Adjust the tripod height and orientation from your shooting position, so you can check your shots without moving.
• Use mirage to read the wind. Focus the spotting scope at about half the distance to the target, at a magnification around 20–25x: the target will be slightly out of focus, but the heat waves become obvious. If they rise straight up ("boil"), there is no wind or it is blowing along the firing line; if they lean, they show direction and strength. Watch above all the area the wind is coming from, and use mirage to spot changes in direction rather than to estimate speed, which becomes unreliable above roughly 25 km/h.
• Beyond certain distances, change tools. At long range, when holes are no longer readable, shooters rely on target cameras or steel targets, where the impact can be seen and heard.

Angled or straight body?

This is the most debated choice, and it depends on how and where you observe.

Angled spotting scope (45°)

• according to Vortex, it is the most common type and often the most versatile;
• more comfortable for long seated sessions and for looking upwards;
• at the range it can be placed next to the shooter for a spotter without getting in the way;
• by rotating the mounting collar, people of different heights can observe without readjusting the tripod.

Straight spotting scope

• more intuitive: you look in the same direction as the target, so you find it faster;
• for those shooting prone, it is aligned with the angle of the riflescope, so you can switch from shooting to observing without changing position (Leupold's recommendation);
• more comfortable for looking downhill and from a vehicle with a window mount;
• easier to slide into and out of a backpack.

In short: angled for those who observe a lot while seated, share the scope or spot for a partner; straight for those who shoot prone and want to check their own shots without moving.

HD/ED glass: what really changes

The abbreviations HD and ED refer to low-dispersion glass lenses (Extra-low Dispersion), which reduce chromatic aberration: the coloured purple or green fringes that appear around high-contrast subjects, such as a black hole on white paper. This defect is more noticeable at high magnifications, so on a spotting scope HD/ED glass is one of the elements that makes the biggest difference in the sharpness of details.

Along with the glass, anti-reflective coatings matter: "fully multi-coated" means that all air-to-glass surfaces have multiple coatings, improving brightness and contrast. As Leupold points out, within the same brand the higher-end models use more complete optical designs and coatings, and this is reflected in the price.

Spotting scopes with a reticle: for the spotter

Most spotting scopes are designed to find and observe the target. Some tactical models, however, feature a graduated reticle that lets the spotter measure how far the shot missed and call the correction to the shooter in the same unit as the riflescope. With a reticle in the first focal plane (FFP), the values remain valid at any magnification.

This is the case, for example, with the Leupold Mark 4 20-60x80 FFP with TMR reticle and the Mark 4 Tactical 12-40x60 TMR. To learn more about units of measurement, see our guide to long-range riflescopes: FFP or SFP, MRAD or MOA.

Tripod and accessories: don't underestimate them

At high magnification every vibration shows: a spotting scope performs only as well as the support it is mounted on. At the range the tripod is the most common solution; in the field, Shooting Illustrated suggests a compact tripod that holds the scope about 45–60 cm off the ground as a good compromise between stability and portability. Shooting sticks and monopods are quicker to set up but less stable. Before buying, also check the mount type (several recent models have an integrated Arca-Swiss mount) and, if you wear glasses, the eye relief of the eyepiece.

Spotting scopes for observing wildlife and landscapes

A spotting scope is not just for the range. Hunters, birdwatching and nature enthusiasts use it to observe wildlife and landscapes at distances where even good binoculars are no longer enough: judging the antlers of a roe buck on the opposite slope, counting birds on a stretch of water or following a chamois along the ridges without approaching and disturbing it.

Binoculars first, then the spotting scope

A spotting scope has a narrow field of view, so it is slow for scanning large areas. Leupold recommends glassing the area with binoculars to pick up movement and then switching to the spotting scope to identify the animal and assess the details. The exception is areas where you expect animals to be standing still or bedded: there it pays to observe directly with the spotting scope.

The grid technique

To avoid missing anything, divide the terrain into sectors roughly as large as the scope's field of view and examine them one at a time, for example from top left to bottom right. Keep the scope still and move only your eyes within each sector, then move on to the next with a smooth panning head. Don't forget the nearby areas: when focusing on distant ridges, it is easy to miss an animal just a few hundred metres away.

Light, magnification and the best times of day

• Dawn and dusk are the times of greatest wildlife activity, but also those with the least light: here an 80–85 mm objective and moderate magnification give a brighter image.
• In the cooler hours mirage is weaker and high magnifications perform better; in the hot hours, over sunlit ground, it pays to reduce magnification.
• Use the lowest magnification to find the subject and zoom in only when you need to read a detail, such as plumage, antlers or a trophy.
• For birds in flight or in trees, the angled body is more comfortable because it lets you look upwards without bending; also check the close focus distance if you often observe nearby subjects.

Landscapes and nature observation

For observing landscapes, mountains and coastlines the same rules apply: a stable tripod, preferably low and without the centre column extended, and a magnification suited to the air conditions. On clear, cold days you can make use of even the highest magnifications; with haze or heat it is better to stay low.

Taking photos with a spotting scope (digiscoping)

Digiscoping means pairing a smartphone or camera with a spotting scope to photograph or film distant subjects. A few precautions are all it takes:

• an adapter that keeps the phone aligned with the eyepiece: handheld, getting sharp photos is almost impossible;
• a moderate digital zoom on the phone, so as not to lose quality;
• if a dark border appears in the corners (vignetting), increase the spotting scope's magnification slightly or crop the photo;
• self-timer or remote shutter to avoid vibrations from touching the screen;
• a solid tripod with a low centre of gravity: at these magnifications every vibration shows in the photo.

Which one to choose based on use

Sport shooting at the range, 25–100 m

A 60–65 mm objective is more than enough and keeps weight and price down. Examples from our catalogue: Vortex Viper HD 15-45x65 straight and angled, Olivon T60 15-45x60 and Konus Konuspot-60C 20-60x60 with tabletop tripod.

Rifle shooting at medium and long range

Here you need 80–85 mm objectives and HD glass to maintain brightness and detail at high magnifications: Vortex Viper HD 20-60x85, Razor HD 27-60x85, Leupold Gold Ring HD 20-60x80, Leupold Kenai HD 25-60x80 (also available as an angled kit with two eyepieces and tripod) and, for a tighter budget, Konus Konuspot-80 or Konuspot-100 20-60x100.

Tactical shooting and shooter/spotter teams

A model with an FFP reticle, such as the Leupold Mark 4 mentioned above, lets you call corrections precisely.

Hunting, birdwatching and observation on the move

Lightness and compactness matter more than maximum magnification: a 65 mm such as the Vortex Razor HD 22-48x65 or the Leupold Gold Ring Compact 15-30x50 are much easier to carry. For observation from a fixed position at dawn and dusk, the 80–85 mm models above are preferable. For glassing, a good pair of binoculars remains indispensable: see our guide to Vortex Diamondback HD binoculars.

In short: the pre-purchase checklist

• Typical shooting distance: 60–65 mm up to 100 m, 80 mm and above for long range.
• Shooting position: straight if you shoot prone, angled for observing while seated or spotting.
• HD/ED glass if you often observe at high magnifications.
• FFP reticle only if you work as a shooter/spotter team.
• Stable tripod and compatible mount.
• Adequate eye relief if you wear glasses.

You can find all models in the Spotting scopes collection and in the Observation optics section. For help choosing the model best suited to your discipline, you can also contact us.